riakaruda

Travelling and eating my way around the world


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Two for one

Apr 20
It only took half a day in Dubrovnik for me to slow down and embrace the laid back atmosphere the Croatians had to offer. As a result, I woke up late, leisurely ate my (free) breakfast, and then realised I was too late to catch the walking tour at 11am. No matter. Obviously I was meant to go to the rocks / beach! I joined my new Irish friends there until 12:30 (when my very white self could no longer manage the heat) after which I returned to the cool of the stone hostel for a bite to eat and rest from the sun. The girls left for Montenegro, and I walked around town, taking pictures. Along the way, I found the supermarket (although for its size, it can barely be called super) and bought some groceries. I also bought a gelato – After Eight flavour. I’m hooked! Spent the evening with others at the hostel and blogged & showed you pictures 🙂
Apr 21
Caught the walking tour this time (with 1 min to spare!) Our tour guide told is all about the ancient and recent history if the town. She was 8 when the Homeland War started, and they fled to Old Town because they thought they’d be safe there, seeing as its a UNESCO World Heritage site. Sadly, they were wrong, and they were under seige tjere for 3.5 months. However, because of UNESCO and other donations, the damage is not immediately obvious. The easiest indicators are the terra cotta roofs: the bright orange ones are new, the faded ones are original. The devastation was more apparent when I walked the city wall. In the 2hrs it took me (in the sunny heat) I saw gorgeous views but also some buildings that had never been restored. It hit home for me as the Homeland War was the first war I remember actually happening as “real” for me. Yet the scenery was still stunning, even in disarray.
After taking TONS of pictures and buying some local artwork, I headed back to the coolness of the hostel again, ate, blogged, and skyped mom & mikayla. Out for my daily gelato – Cookies flavour, then tried to walk to the beach, but it was blocked for movie (Game of Thrones? Or Dwayne Johnson‘s new flick?) So instead I sat by the dock, finished my gelato, then hung out for evening. I had planned to kayak the next day, but it was calling for rain, so I changed plans to a day trip to Mostar, in Bosnia & Herzegovina.


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Here’s hoping it works

** this blog was written while waiting in line for the Eiffel Tower.
Arrived at Gatwick, bought some food from Marks & Spencer (the only thing open) and “checked in” for the evening. i had 4 lovely benches to myself – oh, the luxury. i ate my food, then went to sleep (if u can call it that) but between the bright lights and constant arrivals of more people, i finally gave up at 4:30 and just got up. I’m amazed at how busy that airport is at 3am!! I brushed teeth and hair, attempting to look less homeless, and then checked in for my flight. After going through security, I found s new bench and slept until 6:45, when they posted by departure gate.
It was nice to be on real plane again (as opposed to Ryanair & Easyjet). I felt civilized again.
Touched down in Dubrovnik and caught a shuttle bus for 35 kn. when anyone asked how much, the guy said with a straight face “1000Euros” no one even batted an eye! Hahaha
Arrived at Pile Gate (pronounced pea-leh) which is the main gate for Old Town. Wow! It was amazing. I can see why it’s called the Pearl of the Adriatic. It’s opulent past was obvious from the marble streets! I almost felt bad walking on them in my dusty shoes.
I walked down Stradun, the main street, and turned onto one of several side streets that head up the hill. Still marble. Found my hostel, which had been kept I the traditional style of the building, with MORE marble and travertine on the inside, and exposed rock walls as well.
Met a couple of girls from Ireland who were on their way out to sit in the sun and invited me along. We walked around the outside of the city wall, found some flat rocks and soaked up the sun for a few hours. After having so many go-go-go days, it was fabulous. We then walked a “short distance” to a beach Denise had heard about (and turned out to be 45min each way) and sat at that beach for another hour. Walked back to Old Town, had dinner, hung out and went to bed.


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Wrap it up!

April 18th saw the end of Edinburgh for me. Sad, because not only did I fall in love with the city, I met some awesome people there who I had spent every day with! Woke up and packed up and checked out, leaving my backpack in left luggage. I finished off the food I had left, and gave away the rest (apparently I was VERY hungry when I went grocery shopping…)   Margaret is in search of a job (good luck Margaret!!) so she was heading to New Town to shop, and I stalked followed went along with her there. I had thought about taking a day trip out to St. Andrew‘s but I decided against it for something more relaxing.

I then struck out on my own (the first time in three days!) and headed back to Old Town to visit the museum. I didn’t have my map, but figured I could find it. When I did, I thought, hmmm, this is not the grand exterior I was expecting. I entered, walked through quickly and then realised I had entered the Museum of Edinburgh, not the National Museum (I know, big difference). I exited and set out to find the real museum, er, National Museum. Finally, I found it and what a museum it was! I highly recommend it, and the price of £0 makes it even better! I saw Dolly, the cloned sheep, and a robot who spelled my name for me. Reading this back to myself, I realised I’m not doing the place justice; just know that I would have paid money for this even (and THAT’S saying a lot).

After that, I wandered the street of Old Town, looking for my postcards and souvenirs. I stumbled upon a place that makes tartan and where you can get a pic taken of you in traditional Scottish costume! Yes. I’m THAT touristy. Don’t judge. So, obviously I had my photo taken. While waiting for my time slot (yes, other suckers fell for it too), this little Chinese girl of about 3 years old carried on a conversation with me for 10 min. I have no idea what she was saying, but my well-placed yeses and noes seemed to appease her and keep her going 🙂

I was scheduled to meet Margaret and her cousin (from PEI!!!) for dinner at 6pm, so I still had time to kill. I headed to the Starbucks because I could drink a coffee and scam internet. I managed to scam 1.5 hrs out of my one drip coffee, and during that time, I got a surprise facetime call from Madelyn! It was great to see faces from home!

Met up with my friends, went to dinner and then rushed to catch my bus to the airport. Turns out that Ana had the same flight as me! We sat near each other, but not beside. Instead, Ana had the pleasure of being seated next to a lovely little boy whose parents did not appear to believe in discipline. He’s lucky he was sitting beside her and not me. She just sporadically gave the evil eye when he jumped up and down, screamed, yelled, poked her, etc. I would not have been so passive. I’m very happy that the flight was only 1 hr as even that felt like several!

Arrived at Gatwick Airport about 11:30pm, where Ana and I parted ways; she to her awaiting taxi, me to my search for the softest bench, until my flight early the next morning.


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Haggis, Neeps and Tatties

Today we did the Castle, which was RIGHT next to Castle Rock Hostel. Once inside, we were talking to an employee and she mentioned that the day before they had to close the Castle grounds due to dangerously strong winds. Did you catch that? The day before. As in, the same day Margaret and I climbed a hill WITHOUT rock walls to shield us from said wind. Hmmm. We had actually wondered on the way up, if, as tourists, we wouldn’t be aware of any precautionary warnings or closures due to wind. (I know. You’re thinking, well if they wondered it, why did they keep climbing? In my defense,…  hey, it’s me. And Margaret? Well, I guess we share the same sense of obliviousness mixed with stubbornness and daring.)  The employee’s eyes became as big as saucers when we told her that we had climbed to Arthur’s seat that day. Probably in admiration. I’m sure she wasn’t thinking we were idiotic tourists….

In total, we spent 4 hours inside the castle walls, and it was worth every pence of our £18. In the Memorial to soldiers who had fought in the First and Second World Wars, there were books for the Honour Roll of each division / troop. I found several Calders, both officers and regular military. Being a daredevil (re: Arthur’s Seat) I ignored the “No Photos” sign and snapped some shots of the role call of the Calders I found. It’s not a common last name where I’m from (except of course for the Calder Cup) so I was excited to find their names.

We walked around and saw many cool things and a great view of the city, then gathered with others for the One O’Clock Gun, named such because that’s when it is shot off every day. Very original. Anyway, it was cool to watch as a Scottish female military officer prepared & fired the gun in true military style. After that, we went to the Great Hall (which also had the Listening Window) and heard a guy in Jacobite costume talk about the kilt and give a demonstration on how to properly fold and don a kilt from an 8m length of tartan material. He also showed the versatility of the garment, the many ways it could be worn or used. Pretty awesome!

After the Castle, we went back to the hostel and I ate a late lunch / early dinner. Later that evening, a group of us went out for haggis, neeps & tatties, and whiskey. The haggis was DELICIOUS (and I’m not just saying that!) and tasted somewhat like peppered meatloaf. The neeps and tatties were mashed (turnips and potatoes). Margaret and I decided to share whiskey, as neither of us were super-keen on it. But when in Edinburgh…   so the barkeep recommended 2 kinds, one of which was rubbish, and we didn’t drink it. The other (Laphraoig cask) tasted like campfire smoke which had been made into a liquid, and although that may not sound appetising, it was fairly good. But strong. We took our time and took turns finishing the whopping half cup that was served to us.


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Thar she blows!

To get us all back on track, this blog is talking about the 16th of April. Which means, despite my best concerted good efforts, I keep lagging behind. I guess just thinking about blogging doesn’t ACTUALLY get the blogging done. Huh.

Anyhoo, on the 16th I woke up and met my roomies, Margaret (fellow Canadian) and Ana (Portugese). We went upstairs and had the cheap breakfast (1.50 pounds) and got ready to go on the free walking tour. On our way out the door, we rounded up Ethan, and shortly after starting the tour, we picked up Kendall. Our tour guide was Ben (a true Scotsman! Not all tour guides were…) and began our 3-hr walking / story / sarcasm tour. Ben rocked it. Although later we learned it was a script, we wouldn’t have guessed it at all from his presentation, ease and tongue-in-cheek wit. I learned all about the greats and the infamous, like David Hume, Adam Smith, Deacon Brodie, Maggie Dickson and obviously, Greyfriars Bobby.

Hume, a philosopher, spent his life trying to prove that superstition was bogus, and was commemorated for his great thoughts through a statue of himself with a gold toe, which brings you luck when rubbed. Oh, the irony. Adam Smith was a colleage but apparently his statue isn’t nearly as lucky. Hard to say if he’d be happy or jealous of that fact, given his shared views with Hume.

Deacon Brodie falls under the infamous category. He was a skilled safe-cabinet maker who developed a gambling problem, and cunningly decided that he would steal from the very people who trusted him, seeing as he had made the locks. It worked for a while, but then….  well, I won’t spoil it for you, but let’s just say when the locals figured it out, he wasn’t very popular.

Maggie Dickson earned the nickname Half-Hanged Maggie for surviving a hanging. When they found out she wasn’t dead, they were going to hang her again, but she was saved by a law student claiming double jeopardy. Embracing her infamy after she recovered, she would reportedly hang out her window and yell down to the poor souls who were to be hanged, “Take heart! I went through it and look at me now.”  Hahahaha! A woman after my own sarcastic heart.

Greyfriars Bobby is apparently the most famous Ediburghian, despite not being a human. He was a dog, and he has his own statue and bar, and tourist traps. He’s famous for his dedication to his owner, even after his Policeman owner passed away, staying close to his grave for 13 years.

After the walking tour, we ate some lunch, then Margaret and I decided to walk up to Arthur’s Seat for a great view of the city. Oh, I forgot to mention that it was windy in Edinburgh. And by windy, I don’t mean a lovely gentle  breeze; the wind was strong and made it hard to hear people talk if they were upwind of you. But Marg and I thought, meh, how windy could it be?

Yeah.

So….  it was WINDY. At times, we had to stop and brace ourselves, and sometimes even crouch down, until the wind died down (a bit). We kept walking up, wondering how long it would take, when FINALLY we saw the top. I could lean into the wind and not fall over. Literally. Of course, being the smart people we are, we totally realised that this could be unsafe and we stopped before getting to the top. <pause until you stop giggling> Ok, more likely, we threw caution to the wind (hahaha! see what i did there… I’m so witty) and scrambled up to the monument on Arthur’s Seat, held on for dear life, and got our pics. It was at this point we noticed we had taken the “scenic route” up, and shortened our trek back down.

We stopped at the local grocery store and I bought my first groceries for the trip. I had forgotten how much cheaper it is to buy groceries instead of eating out. My splurge was some apple pork sausages which were delish! The wind had worn us out completely, so we finished the evening by just hanging out with the others at the hostel.

…and now I must hit the sack, so I will continue to fall behind on blogging…

 


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Edinburah!

Touched down late at Edinburgh airport, collected my backpack and headed towards the customs area. I had two choices, and seeing as it was so late at night, I probably stared at it for 3 or 4 minutes while others walked past me, making their decision with ease. When I finally decided which door was mine, (because there were big signs saying “NO RE-ENTRY!”) I walked out and found the bus into town. Halfway into town, I realised I had not spoken to ANYONE about re-entering the UK!  I panicked a bit, wondering if I should go back / call someone official / visit the embassy, because I didn’t want to be in the country illegally – I mean, I’m only just halfway thru my trip!

Turns out my original stamp into UK was good for 6 months, so it wasn’t necessary. But I kinda feel ripped off for not getting a Scotland stamp (I paid good money for this trip!). Oh well.

Off the bus at 11:30pm, I tried to orient myself to find the hostel. Just then, two guys (Kendal from Kansas, Ethan from Portland) yelled out, “Anyone going to Castle Rock?” to which I replied I was, so we struck out to find the hostel together. Up a hill that looked like a fairy tale mountain town, directly opposite the Castle, we found our hostel and checked in. I managed to find my stuff and climb into my bed in the dark, thanks to a friendly and helpful fellow roommate (who I found out the next day was Margaret, from Canada and my new Edinburgh bestie).

 


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photos!!!

I FINALLY figured out and have a computer with which to upload some photos!

DUBLIN

pouring my own Guinness!

pouring my own Guinness!

inside St. Paul's Catthedral

inside St. Paul’s Catthedral

look what I found!!!

look what I found!!!

Darina and I enjoying an Irish Coffee with Jameson

Darina and I enjoying an Irish Coffee with Jameson

Knocking on the door which set off the alarm

Knocking on the door which set off the alarm

EDINBURGH

Jacobite teaching us how to properly don a kilt!

Jacobite teaching us how to properly don a kilt!

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Haggis, Neeps and Tatties   (translation: Haggis, turnips and potatoes)

Haggis, Neeps and Tatties
(translation: Haggis, turnips and potatoes)

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Trying some Scottish whiskey. Laphroaig cask. Tasted like liquid campfire smoke.

Trying some Scottish whiskey. Laphroaig cask. Tasted like liquid campfire smoke.

Margaret and I - my Canadian buddy I met in Edinburgh

Margaret and I – my Canadian buddy I met in Edinburgh

I took pictures, while Ana drew her memories...  She was drawing the guy playing the fiddle.

I took pictures, while Ana drew her memories… She was drawing the guy playing the fiddle.

around Dublin city

around Dublin city

At Edinburgh Castle grounds

At Edinburgh Castle grounds

St. Anthony's Chapel, near Arthur's Seat, Holyrood Hill

St. Anthony’s Chapel, near Arthur’s Seat, Holyrood Hill

Arthur's Seat. Hanging on for dear life! The winds were ridiculously strong!

Arthur’s Seat. Hanging on for dear life! The winds were ridiculously strong!

Photos from London and Manchester to come!


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Ancient & Recent History….

I’m already a week behind on my blogging! I’m already beginning to forget but seeing as I need a little break from the sun here in Dubrovnik, let’s see if I can catch up a bit more. Altho the sun may call me back out soon…

A week ago: Woke up at 5am (gah!) and caught my taxi to the airport. Although more expensive, the taxi allowed me about an hour more sleep so I felt it was definitely worth every pence! Flew with Ryanair, which was an experience for sure. They say you get what you pay for, and I paid $20 for the flight and $20 for my luggage, so you can guess what it was like. Anyways, arrived at Dublin airport and caught the airporter into town, getting off near Trinity College. The roads wind in every which way, and altho I am fairly good with directions, I struggled to get my bearings. I pulled out my map, and had barely had it in my hands for 10 sec when a lady asked me if she could provide assistance. So nice! I have no problems asking for directions but Londoners didn’t seem impressed to be stopped, whereas I barely had time to BE lost before being helped by Irish people. Love’em!

Found my hostel, which was right on the canal / river, and dropped my bags. Met up with Darina, my ol’ onsening pal from Japan. Because there were no onsens to take in, we instead headed to Trinity College, Darina’s alma mater. The grounds were beautifully old and full of character. You could feel the centuries of thinking that had gone on there. We entered the library and saw the Book of Kells, a ninth century illuminated gospel manuscript created by Celtic monks. They are encased in a display case and every day a different page is displayed. The detail and artistry are intricately stunning. We continued on into the Long Hall, which houses 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books, and 38 busts of famous literary and philosophical people. It was like something out of a Harry Potter scene and I could have sat there forever, taking in the atmosphere and the aroma of old books (at least, until the school tours came in…).

We took a walking tour and I saw several doors of Dublin, famous for their Georgian design and bright colours. I snagged an opportunity for a photo of me using the knocker on a beautiful red door, only to be embarrassed by setting off the alarm on the house it belonged to! I apologised to the guy who emerged to find us, to which he gruffly replied “no worries” as it happens EVERY DAY. We snickered off down the road in search of more to see.

We came across some fresh homemade ice cream, from Murphy’s, made onsite from the cream of some famous Irish cows or something in Dingle. And they well SHOULD be famous bovines, because they make some deliciously sinful cream! I had a scoop of sea salt & cream, and another of caramelised brown bread ice cream. I taste-tested Darina’s Baileys flavour which was also delish! We walked around some more, and then ate at Joe Burger. I had a lamb burger with red onion sauce wrapped in a pita – to die for! After, in true Irish fashion, we began our pub crawl (well, mini pub crawl. I AM a light-weight). We had a Guinness at one pub, then onto another pub for an Irish coffee with Jameson whiskey, and finally to another place for Bailey’s on ice. We walked THRU Temple Bar but both of us agreed that the crowded, music-blarring atmosphere was not for us. I really enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere of the pubs we stopped at. We walked and took pictures, then we parted ways and I headed back to the hostel.

The next morning I got up, packed and checked out, leaving my backpack in left luggage for later, and headed off to make the most of my Dublin pass. I went to both Christ Church Cathedral and St. Paul’s Cathedral. Both were included in the pass, but I liked St. Paul’s better (despite the single price of Christ Church being more expensive). St. Paul’s had beautiful stone tiles on the floor that caught my attention, and it’s possible that I photographed the floor more than other things 😉

In between seeing the two cathedrals, I visited Dublinia, a historic experience museum, which taught me all about the Vikings, medieval times and present-day Dublin. It was somewhat geared towards children, but it was a refreshing change to the regular museum format I’ve seen so much of lately. I made a wax rubbing of my name in Viking letters. However, the section that made me giggle was the explanation of a Viking’s house, complete with outhouse and the use of moss for toilet paper. As I came around the corner, I could hear a fellow “using” the toilet, complete with grunts, and telling me “Don’t just stand there, pass the moss, will ya?”  hahahahahaha!

From there, St. Pauls’ Cathedral, then on to the Guinness Storehouse. There I learned all about how to make a proper stout, and all the history around it, and finished with attending Guinness Academy where I personally learned how to pour a proper pint of Guinness. I now am the holder of a certificate stating as such (so I’ll be that annoying customer who sends back in improper Guinness from now on 😉  ). I then took my self-poured pint up to the Gravity Bar to enjoy alongside of a spectacular 360 degree view of Dublin. I felt a little funny drinking at about noon, but I figured it was 5 o’clock somewhere – haha!

I was enjoying the scenery so much, I lost track of time and realised I had 5min to meet up with Darina, who was probably a 15 min walk away. I hurried down the seven flights of stairs out onto the cobblestone road, tripping on a cobblestone and dropping my brand-new fancy-pants camera on the ground. I quickly picked it up, checked to see if it worked, and hurried on. Not until I met up with Darina (15 min late) did I realised that I had damaged it! Luckily it is stuck on Smart Auto, so it will still take a great photo, but the shutter button is broken so I only have the touch-screen shutter option left. I bought it on Visa though, so it has the 90-purchase protection, so I’ll get a replacement when I get back.

With Darina, I entered the Kilmainham Gaol (pronounced Jail) and our tour leader, Anthony, explained everything captivatingly yet succinctly. I learned a lot of cool history about Dublin (which apparently I’ve already forgotten!) but needless to say, it was a must-see for sure.  We then said our goodbyes, I bought my postcards and searched for the elusive stamps (which I never found) and bought my fridge magnets. I’m collecting fridge magnets as my souvenirs. They’re light, cheap, useful and readily available anywhere.

Caught the bus out to the airport and readied myself for my next stop: Edinburgh.


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The full Manchester Experience

Woke up and was treated to a homemade, traditional English breakfast which included eggs, beans, grilled tomato, sausage and mushrooms. YUM! then headed off to Old Trafford for the tour. We had plans to walk there, about 30 min, but then I read the fine print about being there 30 min prior to start time. Our tour time: 11:40. Be there: 11:10. Me reading this info: 11:05.

Made it there by 11:35 and I was read to cry on demand if they refused entry. They didn’t so no waterworks were needed (these were saved for later…). The tour was awesome, including getting to enter the stadium by the players entrance (complete with song & crowd applause!), getting to enter the players’ change room (sadly, no players 😉 ), and a picture with Sir Alex himself as he signed ME on as the next ManU player!!! (Ok, maybe it was a reasonable facsimile…). I easily took 50 pictures, including me almost touching the grass, and me wearing Rooney’s jersey!

Wouldn’t you love to see these pictures???  Yeah. So would I. But there are none to be seen.

I was using my iPhone because I had no more memory space on my camera. I used a special app because it takes better pictures that the regular camera feature. Apparently I did something wrong EVERY TIME I TOOK A PICTURE because not one was saved. When I realised this a few hours later (after leaving Old Trafford), THAT’S when the waterworks started. I quickly composed myself, and headed on to the evening’s next event: seeing a band called Naymedici (Nay- med- ee-chee). Described as gypsy, Irish-folk punk, it was awesome music to listen to!  My old friend Gez and my new friend Sam were actors in their Paddy McGee music video, so I’m famous by association now, also because I met some people with the band. Late night out, then home, packed and crashed at 3am, allowing for a full 3hrs sleep before getting up to catch my flight to Dublin. Hopped a cab to the Manchester airport (where they did NOT have free wifi!) to start the next leg of my adventure: Dublin.